Heel and method of making and covering the same



Sept. 1, 1931. I N H. KNOWLTON ET AL v fi HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING AND COVERING THE SAME Filed July 25, 1930 Patented Sept. l, 1931 NORWOODH. KNOWLTON, OF ROCKPORT, AND WILLIAM Hi NUTT, OIE BEVERLY, MASSA- CHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY HEEL AND METHOD OF MAKING AND COVERING THE SAME Application filed July 23, 1930. serial No. 470,032.

This invention relates to improved methods of making and covering heels and also to improved methods of making shoes and to improvements in heels and shoes as articles of manufacture. While the invention is herein illustrated with special reference to Louis heels it is not necessarily limited in its application to heels of that particular type.

In 'United States Letters Patent No. 1,704,204, granted March 5, 1929, upon application of W. H. Nutt, there is disclosed a Louis heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending from the top to the bottom of the heel, a covering for the rear and sides of the heel the lateral margins of which overlie the lateral margins of the heel breast and are tucked into the breast grooves, and a breast covering having its lateral margins tucked into the breast grooves beside the tucked-in marginsof the side covering. In order to enhance the artistic and stylish appearance of shoes to which such heels are attached it is desirable that the curves of the sole edge, at opposite sides of the shank, shall portions of the side cover members flat' against the breast face, without tucking, at

the upper portion of the heel breast so that flat untucked portions of the side cover members-are provided, in line with the breast.

grooves, at the upper portion of the heel breast subsequently to be overlapped or otherwise engaged by the lateral margins of a heel breast covering. As illustrated herein, and in accordance with another aspect of the invention, the lateral margins of the breast covering are also tucked into the breast grooves throughoutthe lengths of the latter but, at the opposite corner portions of the breast lip, the lateral margins of the breast covering are laid in place without any tucking in of their edges. In accordance with one illustrated exemplification of this aspect of the invention the breast covering margins, at the upper corners of the heel breast may be laid substantially fiat upon the untucked upper end portions of the side cover margins, said breast covering margins being trimmed, either before or after they have been finally secured in place, so as to blend smoothly with the curves both of the sole edge and of the heel breast grooves. In accordance with another illustrated exemplification of the invention, however, the breast covering margins at the upper corners of the heel breast may be trimmed so as to abut trimmed edges previously formed upon the portions of the side cover margins which overlie the upper heel breast corners, the trimming of these side cover and breast covering margins being along lines blending with the curves of the sole edge and with the curves of the breast grooves. If not trimmed to abut the edges of the breast covering, the untucked portions of the side cover margins which overlie the upper corners of the heel breast are beveled or otherwise treated to reduce the thickness of their inner edges and thus to insure that just above or forward of the upper ends of i the grooves to receive and to provide a firm backing for the untucked upper ends of the cover margins.

If, as herein shown, the breast of a Louis heel is covered by a flap which is integral with the sole of a shoe to which the heel is attached, the lateral boundaries of the breast covering are continuous with the lines of the edge curves at the shank of the sole so that a smoothly blended curved line extends along the edge of the sole and down the lateral margin of the heel breast at each side of the shoe without any jog or interruption at or near the forward edge of the heel breast lip. It is to be recognized, therefore, that invention also resides in an improvement in the art of making shoes which comprises the attachment to a shoe of a Louis heel having a side covering applied thereto as hereinbefore described, the covering of the breast of the heel by means of a flap integral with the sole of the shoe, the laying of marginal portions of the breast flap over, or in abutting edge-to-edge relation with, the untucked marginal portions of the side covering at the upper or lipped portion of the heel breast, and the tucking of other marginal portions of the breast flap into the breast grooves below the upper portion of the heel breast.

Considered in another aspect, invention is also to be recognized as residing in an article of manufacture consisting of a heel having a marginal groove in its breast extending heightwise of the heel, and a side covering overlying a lateral breast edge of'the heel and having a marginal-portion tucked into said groove and an untucked marginal portion overlying the respective heel breast margins at the upper portion of the heel breast. Inasmuch as neither the upper portions of the side cox'er margins nor the corresponding portions'of the breast cover margins are to be secured in place by tucking, the heel is herein'shown as being provided with a cover-receiving groove which, in accordance with another feature of the invention, extends along a lateral portion of a heel breast but which terminates short of the upper or forward edge of the heel breast.

The invention further consists in a shoe comprising a sole having a heel breast covering flap integral therewith, and a heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending heightwise of the heel and located one near each lateral margin of the heel breast,the heel being provided with a covering for its rear and side surfaces having marginal portions overlying the lateral edges of the heel breast and other marginal portions tucked into said grooves, and said sole flap having lateral margins tucked into said. grooves throughout a portion only of the height of the heel breast, the portions of said flap margins near the upper edge of the heel breast being untucked and either overlapping the respective portions of the side cover margins which overlie the upper heel breast corners or arranged with their edges abutting those of the side cover margins. In the latter exemplification of the invention the breast covering is shown as being countersunk in chamfered portions of the heel breast to insure that no portion of the trimmed edges of the breast covering shall be exposed inthe vicinity of the heel breast corners. In either case the untucked edges of the breast covering are trimmed to blend with the curves of the edges of the shank portion of the sole of the shoe and with the curves of the heel breast grooves. The above-mentioned and other features and aspects of the invention will be explained in the following description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figs. 1 and 2 are perspective views of an uncovered Louis heel embodying the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a side elevational view of the heel as it appears after its rear and side surfaces have been covered; I

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view of the heel; Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but illus trating a further step in the preparation of the heel for the reception of a breast covering lustrating an alternative form of construction;

Fig. 6 is a section on the line VIVI of Fi 3 igs. 7 and 8 are fragmentary sectional views on an enlarged scale taken along the lines -VIIVII and VIII-VIII of Fig. 4;

Fig. 9 is a. view similar to Fig- 8 but illustrating the upper portion of one of the side cover margins as it appears after being skived and covered by a breast covering flap;

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9 but showing the side cover margins skived to a greater extent;

Fig. 10a is a fragmentary sectional view, on an enlarged scale,-taken along the line XX of Fig. 5a;

Fig. 11 is a bottom plan view of a shoe 7 having attached thereto a covered Louis heel embodying the present invention;

Fig. 12 is a fragmentary side elevational view of the shoe shown in Fig. 11; and

Fig. 13 is a fragmentary view, in central vertical section, of 'a heel like that shown in the preceding views but having a breast covering applied thereto before attachment of the heel to a shoe.

Referring to the drawings, there is shown for illustrative purposes in Figs. 1 and 2 an uncovered Louis heel H having a curved surface 14 of the usual contour at the rear and sides of the heel and having also an attaching face 16, a top-lift receiving face 18 and a breast face 20. all of the usual shape, the breast face projecting forwardly at its upper extremity to form the usual breast lip 22. For the purpose of receiving the margins of coverings to be applied to the heel, the breast of the heel is provided with relatively deep and narrow marginal ooves 24, these grooves extending upwardly from the topift receiving face 18 into the lip 22 of the heel breast. in order to providea firm backing for the margins of the Fig. 5a is a view similar to Fig. 5 but ill lip of the heel.

side and breast coverings which are merely to overlie the opposite corner portions of the heel 'breast lip, as well as to avoid weakening of these corner portions of the lip, the grooves 24 are made to terminate at points 26 spaced from the forward edge 28 of the Thus, the opposite corner portions of the lip 22 are not separated from the rest of the lip as in breast grooved Louis heels heretofore manufactured but substantially flat ungrooved .surfaces 30 are provided against which the upper portions of the side cover margins may be laid and secured in place without tucking to receive and underlie corresponding marginal portions of the breast covering.

In covering the above-described heel as herein illustrated, a covering or cover 34 of leather, celluloid or other suitable material is wrapped around the rear and sides of the heel in the usual way, suitable adhesive being used to secure all parts of the cover in place. The cover 34 is'provided with suflicient material in its opposite lateral margins for overlapping the lateral margins of the breast face'of the heel and for tucking into the breast grooves 24. Thesela'teral margins of the side cover 34 are laid against the heel breast margins so as to overlie the grooves 24 and, either before or after being thus laid. the cover margins are trimmed to provide only sufficient surplus for tucking into the grooves and overlying the ungrooved corners 30 of the breast lip. Thereafter, these lateral margins of the side cover 34 are overlaid and secured in place upon the lateral margins of the breast of the heel, the cover margins being tucked into the grooves 24 throughout the lengths of thelatter (as shown in Fig. 6) but being merely laid substantially tlat against the surfaces 30 above the grooves without any tucking whatever at these points. The tucking of the side cover margins into the grooves 24 may take place either before or after the upper portions of the cover margins have been overlaid upon the breast surfaces 30 and the tucking may be accomplished by the use of tucking blades or other suitable means as described in Letters Patent No. 1,704,204: hereinbefore referred to. Inasmuch, however, as the grooves 2-1 of the illustrated heel fall short of extending to the forward edge 28 of the heel breast lip 22, the tucking must cease at the upper ends of the grooves and necessarily small portions at the upper extremities of the side cover margins will be left untucked and overlying the corner-portio11s 3O of'the lip 26.. It is only necessary to press these upper portions of '60 the side cover margins against the corners of the breast lip so as to provide substantially fiat surfaces 36 upon which are to be laid the upper marginal portions of the breast coverin in order that the portions 36 of the side cover margins shall not produce undesirable ridges in the breast covering which is subsequcntly to be laid thereover, it is advantageous to skive or bevel the portions 36 more or less, as indicated at 42 in Fig. 9, or at 4A in Figs. 5 and 10, the condition shown in Fig. 9 being perhaps more desirable where the side covering is of leather, while the condition shown in Figs. 5 and 10 is one which is practicabe Where the side covering is of celluloid. In either case the side cover portions 36 are reduced or feather edged so as to merge gradually with the breast surface of the heel so that the cover portions 36 will not produce ridges or bulges in the breast covering flap and thus the presence of the portions 36 beneath the breast covering will not be apparent in the finished shoe.

If, in accordance with the usual custom, the breast of the heel is to be covered with a flap formed as an integral part of the sole of a shoe the heel is now ready for attachment to the shoe, after which a flap, such as the flap F (Fig. 11), split from the sole .9 of ashoe 8 is applied to the breast of the heel H, the flap F being trimmed to the desired marginal contour either before or after application to the heel breast and suitable adhesive being employed to secure the flap to the heel. Preferably, however, the sole flap is trimmed after application to the heel breast, the trimming cuts being gaged wholly or partially from the breast grooves or from the adjacent lateral edges of the heel breast. The portions of the breast flap margin which are to be tucked into the breast grooves 24 are trimmed to provide the requisite surplus for such tucking while, as shown herein, the portions of the breast flap margins which are to overlie the portions 36 of the side cover margins above the upper ends of the grooves 24 are trimmed to blend both with the curves of the breast grooves and with the curves of the sole edge, it being practicable to obtain such results by manipulation of the heel or the trimming tool during the trimming operation and -to, insure that the allowance for tucking is made gradually where the breast flap margins are to enter the upper portions of the breast-grooves.

In Figs. 5a and 10a there is shown a modified construction in which the side cover portions 36 which overlie the breast corners, instead of being trimmed so as to skive or bevel these portions of the cover, are trimmed so as to produce edges 62 substantially perpendicular to the heel breast surface. The trimming cuts may be made by drawing a sharp knife from the upper ends of'the grooves 24 to the adjacent corners of the heel breast. The knife is preferably caused to embed itself slightly in the wood of the heel breast as it is being drawn alon and by slightly tippin or rocking the kni e it may also be cause actually to remove a small chip from the heel breast, thus relieving the breast surface by producing a slight bevel or ehamfer 64 into which .the margin of the breast covering may subsequently be countersunk as shown in Fig. 1011. If desired, however, the chamfers 64 may be formed by making separate cuts at the required angle to the perpendicular'cuts, made in the heel breast when trimming the cover portions 36. When the side cover margins at the heel breast corner are trimmed and the breast face of the heel chamfered as just described, the breast covering is trimmed so that its trimmed edges, instead of overlying the portions 36 of the side cover, will abut the-trimmed edgesof the cover portions 36. As shown in Fig. 5a a separate breast covering 58 is thus trimmed to format 66 a butted joint instead of a lapped joint when the breast covering margins engage the side cover portions 36. Thechamfers 64 permit the use of a breast covering which is somewhat thicker that the side covering without having anyportions of the edges of the breast cover ing exposed to view. x I

' The breast flap margins, after being trimmed, are finally secured in place, the portions adjacent to the grooves 24 being tucked into the grooves throughout the lengths of the latter. Above the grooves 24, however, where the portions 36 of theside cover margins overlie the ungrooved corners of the lip of the heel breast, the margins of the breast flap merely overlap these portions 36, or engage them in abutting edge-to-e'dge relation as the 'case may be. In either case, however, the edge-s of the as to blend grooves and ofthe sole edge. Since there is no tucking or other operation to be performed upon these trimmed edgeshai'ing any tendency to modify their curvature or to change their'relation to the heel, these edges will, in the finished shoe, blend or merge smoothly with the sole edge and breast groove curves as is desired. Thus," the boundaries of" the sole and the breast flap are defined, at each side of the shoe, by difi'erent portions of a single continuous line which extends in a sweeping curve along each lateral margin of the sole and heel breast.

After the sole flap Fehas been applied to the heel breast as above described it appears 'as shown in Fig. 11. In this figure the lateral boundaries of the breast flap F or, in other words, the joints between the meeting margins of the side andvbreast coverings, are indicated by the curved lines 46 which extend from the top-lift end of the heel to the points 48. From the opposite ends of the dotted line 26, which indicates the forward edge of then-heel breast lip, the curved lines 50 indicate the edges of the shank portion ofthe sole 8. Thesecurved lines 46,an,d 50 are connected between the points 48 and the dotted line 28, by short curved lines 52 which indicate the breast covering are trimmed sowith the curves of the breast trimmed lateral edges of the breast flap F above'the grooves 24, these trimmed edges blending perfectly with the curves of the lines at either side of the shoe a certain amount of sole edge thickness continuing rearwardly a short distance beneath the 'p of the heel f breast, as shown at 54 in Fig. 1 thus carrying the lines of the sole edge part way along the .heel breast and adding to the smart appearanceof the shoe. In this figure the tucked-in portions of the breast flap are indicated by dotted lines at 56.- Similar effects maybe prnduced in the finished shoe whether the breast grooves are terminated short ofthe integral with the sole of a shoe to which the heel is attached, a breast covering suchas that shown at 58 in Fig. 13 may be employed, the use of a separate breast, covering of this sort enabling the breast of the heel to be covered before attachment of the'heel to a shoe so that a heel having a covered heel breast may.

be produced in a heel making factory or a heel covering plant and supplied, as a coin pletely covered heel, to ashoe manufacturer.

forward'edge of the lip andwhether they 3 The covering 58 may be trimmed before or i after applieation to the heel and ifftrimmed after being laid upon the heel breast the trimming may be gaged from the grooves in the heel breast or from the lateral breast edges in the manner hereinbefore described with ref-' erence to the sole flap F. The upper extremity of the breast covering 58 may be overlapped upon the attaching face of the heel as indicated at 60.

The practice of the herein-described meth- 0d not only facilitates the blending of the sole edge curves with the curves of the breast cover boundaries but it also tends to insure uniformity of results on different shoes, this i being due partially to the fact that the final shape of the lateral boundaries of the breast covering at the upper portion offthe heel breast is determined solely by the shape and location of the trimming cuts, there being no subsequent tucking or other operations to be performed upon these portions of the breast covering margins such as would tend to modlfy their contour. In cases where the breast covering margins are overlapped upon the side cover margins at the upper heel breast corners, the presence of the substantially fiat untucked margins of the side covering beneath the margins of thebreast covering allows for considerable latitude in the location of the trimming cuts in the breast covering margins as may be desired to effect proper blending of the curves at these points without risk of exposing to view any uncovered portion of the heel breast surface. 7

Having described our invention, What we claim as new and desire to. secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of covering heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which comprises tucking marginal portions of side cover members into said grooves be low the upper portion of the breast of a heel, and laying marginal portions of said side cover members upon the lateral margins of the breast face without tucking at the upper portion of the heel breast.-

2. That improvement in methods of covering heels which comprises applying a covering to the rear and sides of a heel having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of its breast face, and securing the lateral margins of said covering upon the lateral margins of the breast face of the heel by tucking said margins of said covering'into said grooves below the upper portion of the heel breast but laying said covering margins substantially flat upon the lateral margins of the breast face without tucking at the upper portion of the heel breast.

3. That improvement in methods of cover ing heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which comprises tucking marginal portions of said side cover members into said grooves below the upper portion of the breast of aheel, laying marginal portions of said side cover members upon the lateral margins of the breast face without tucking at the upper portion of the heelibreast, and reducing the thickness of the edges of said untucked marginal portions of said side cover members.

4. That improvement in methods of covering heels having grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which comprises tucking marginal portions of side cover members into said grooves below the upper por; 1

tion of the breast of a heel, laying marginal portions of the side cover members upon the lateral margins of the breast face at the upper portion of the heel breast, applying a covering to the breast of the heel, and tucking into said breast grooves those portions of the lateral margins of said breast covering adjacent to the tucked-in portions of the side cover members but leaving the margins of the breastcovering at the upper portions of the heel breastuntucked.

portions of the side cover members upon the lateral margins of the breast face at the upper portion of the heel breast, applying a covering to the breast ofthe heel, tucking into said breast grooves portions of the lateral margins of said breast covering adjacent to the tucked-in portions of the side cover members, and laying marginal portions of the breast covering at the upper portions of the heelv breast over the untucked marginal poi tions of the side cover members. 6. That improvement in methods of covering heels having grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which terminate short of the upper ends of the heel breast which comprises tucking marginal portions of side cover members into said grooves, laying marginal portions of said side cover members upon the lateral margins of the breast face above said grooves, trimming said overlaid side cover margins along lines extending from the upper ends of said grooves to the adjacent upper corners of the heel breast, relieving the heel breast surface adjacent to said trimmed edges of said side cover margins, applying a covering to the breast of the heel, countersinlring marginal portions of said breast covering within said relieved portions of the breast surface with the edges of said countersunk portions abutting said trimmed edges of said side cover members, and tucking into said breast grooves the marginal portions of said breast covering adjacent to the tucked-in portions of the side cover members. 7. That improvement in methods of covering heels having cover-receiving grooves in having side cover members marginal portions of which are received and retained in said grooves below the upper portion of the heel breast and other marginal portions of which lie flat against the breast face at the upper portion of the heel breast, which comprises applying a covering to the breast of the heel, tucking into said-breast grooves portions of the lateral margins of the breast covering adjacent to the tucked-in portions of the side cover members, and overlaying marginal pore tions of the breast covering at the upper portion of the heel breast upon said flat marginal portions of the side cover members,

8. That improvement in methods of making heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which terminate short of the upper edges of the heel laying flat upon the ungrooved margins at the upper portion of the heel breast portions of the margins of the side cover members.

9. That improvement in methods of mzaking heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which terminate short of the upper edges of the heel breast, which comprises tucking into said breast grooves marginal portions of cover members applied to the sides of the heel, laying flat upon the ungrooved margins at the upper portion of the heel breast por- .tions of the margins of the side cover members, overlaying marginal portions of a breast covering upon the untucked margins of the side cover members above said breast grooves, and tucking the lateral margins of the breast covering into said breast grooves throughout the lengths of the latter.

10. That improvement in methods of covering Louis heels having in the lateral margins oftheir breast faces cover-receiving grooves terminating short of the forward edges of the heel breast lips, which comprises tucking the lateral margins of a .covermg for the rear and sides of the heel into said edge grooves throughout the lengths of the latter, and laying the upper extremities of said side covering margins flat upon the opposite corner portions of the heel breast lip forward of said 11. Thatimprovement in methods of cover1ng Louis heels having in the lateral margms of their breast faces cover-receiving grooves terminating short of the forward of the heel breast lips, which comprises laying the upper extremities of the lateral margins of a side covering flat upon the heel breast margins above said grooves, tucking other'portions of the lateral margins of said side covering into said breast grooves, laying a breast covering against the heel breast so as to overlie said side covering margins above said grooves, and tucking the lateral margins of said breast covering below said side cover margins into said grooves.

13. That improvement in methods of covering Louis heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces terminating short of the upper forward edges of'the heel breast lips, which comprises laying the upper extremities of the lateral margins of a side covering flat upon the heel breast margins above, said grooves, tucking other portions of the lateral margins of said side covering into said breast grooves, feather edging the portions of said side covering margins above said grooves, laying lbreast covering upon the uncovered portion of the heel breast, overlaying marginal portions of said breast covering upon said side covering margins above said grooves, and tucking other portions of the lateral margins of the breast covering into said grooves.

14:. That improvement in methods of covering Louis heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces terminating short of the upper forward edges of the heel breast lips, which comprises laying the upper extremities of the lateral margms of a side covering flat upon the' heel breast margins above said grooves, tucking other portions of the lateral margins of said side covering into said breast grooves, feather edging the portions of said side covering margins above said grooves, laying a breast covering upon the uncovered portion of the heel breast, trimming the lateral margins-of said breast covering to provide edges curved widthwise of the breast covering to blendwith the curves of said breast grooves and to allow for tucking of said breast covering margins into said grooves below said trimmed edges, overlaying said trimmed edges upon said side covering margins above said grooves, and tucking the lateral margins of said breast covering into said grooves below said trimmed edges.

15. That improvement in methods of covering Louis heels having cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces terminating short of the upper forward edges of the heel breast lips which comprises laying the upper extremity of dshe lateral margms- -of a. side covering upon the heel breast margins above said grooves, tucking other portions of the lateral margins of said side covering into said breast grooves, trimming the portions of said side covering mar-- gins above said grooves along lines extending from the upper ends of said grooves to the adjacent corners of the heel breast lip, laying a breast covering upon the uncovered portion of the hoel breast with lateral edges of said breast covering abutting the trimmed edges ofthe side covering above said grooves.

. and tucking the lateral margins of the breast covering into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter. v

'16. That improvement in methods of oov ering heels having cover-receiving grooves terminating short ofthe upper edges of the heel breast which comprises relieving portions of the breast surface to provide countersunk shoulders above and in line with said grooves, applying a covering to the heel breast, trimming the margins of the breast covering above said grooves in line with said shoulders andbutting thetrimmededges of 0 points spaced from the attachingdace edge of the heel breast, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel, tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter, and laying the upper portions of said covering'margins fiat upon the ungrooved upper corner portions of the heel breast.

' .18. That improvement in methods of making covered heels which comprises grooving the lateral margins of the breast of a heel from the top-lift-receiving face upwardly to points spaced from the attaching-face edge of the heel breast, applying a covering'to the rear and sides of-the heel, tucking the lateral margins of the covering into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter, laying the upper portions of said cover margins flat upon the ungrooved upper corner portions of the heel breast, and reducing the edge thickness of said upper portions of said covering margins.

19. That improvement in methods of making coveredheels which comprises grooving the lateral margins of the breast of a heel from the top-lift-receiving face upwardly tov points spaced from the-attaching-face edge of the heel breast, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel, tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter, laying the upper portions of said covering'margins flat upon the ungrooved upper corner; portions of the heel breast, laying a breast covering upon the uncovered portion of the heel breast,coverlaying marginal portions of said breast covering upon said side covering margins above said grooves, and tucking other portions of said marginsof the breast covering into said grooves.

' 20., That'improvement in methods of making covered heels which comprises grooving the lateralmargins of the breast of a heel from the top-lift-receiving face upwardly to points spaced from the attaching-facev edge of the heel breast, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel, tucking the lateral margins of said covering into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter, laying, the upper portions of said covering margins flat upon the ungrooved upper corner'portions of the heel breast, laying a breast covering uponrt'he uncovered portion of the heel breast, trimming the lateral margins of said breast covering to provide edges curved widthwise of the breast covering to blend with the curves of said breast grooves and to allow for tucking of said breast covering margins into said grooves below said trimmed edges, overlaying said trimmed edges upon said side covering margins above said grooves, and tucking the lateral margins of said breast covering into said grooves below said trimmed edges.

21. That improvement in methods of making shoes fitted with Louis heels having side cover members marginal portions of which are tucked into cover-receiving grooves in the lateral margins of the heel breast and other marginal portions of which are laid flat upon the opposite corner portions of the heel breast lip which comprisesattaching such a heel to a shoe having a breast covering flap split from but formed integral with the sole, laying said flap upon the uncovered portion of the breast of the heel, overlaying portions of the lateral margins of said flap upon said untucked marginal portions of the side covering, and tucking other marginal portions of the breast flap into said breast grooves.

22. That improvement in methods of making shoes fitted with Louis heels having coverreceiving grooves in the lateral margins of their breast faces which comprises applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel,

.the breast of the heel with portions of the lateral margins of the flap overlying said upper extremities of the side cover margins, and tucking the rest of the lateral margins 0t said flap into said breast grooves.

23. That improvement in methods of making shoes having covered Louis heels which comprises grooving the lateral margins of the breast of a Louis, heel to formcover-receiving grooves term nating short of the forward edge of the heel breast lip, applying a covering to the rear and sides of the heel,

laying the upper extremities of the lateral margins of said side covering flat upon the hcelbreast margins above said groove, tucking otherportions of the lateral margins of sa d. side covering into said breast grooves, attaching the heel to a shoe having a breast covering flan split from but formed integral witlrthe sole of the shoe, laying said flap upon the breast of the heel, trimming the flap to provide lateral edges curved to blend with the curves of the sole edges and adapted to extendacross said'flat portions of said side covering margins inwardly from the upper corners thereof to the upper extremities of said grooves and to allow surplus for tucking .into said grooves, overlaying said trimmed edges upon said upper extremities of the side covering margins, and tucking said surplus into said grooves.

I 24. A. heel having a marginal groovein its breast extending heightwise of the'heel, and a side covering overlying a lateral breast edge of the heel and having a marginal portion tucked into said groove and an untuckcd marginal portion overlying the respective heel breast margin at the upper portion of the heel breast.

25. A heel having a curved marginal groove in its breast extending heightwise of the heel, and a sidecoveringoverlying a lateral breast edge of the heel and having a marginal portion tucked into said groove and an untu'cked marginal portion overlying the respective heel breast margin at the upper portion of the heel breast and'having a trimmed edge blending with the curve of said breast groove.

26. A heel having a marginal groove in its breast extending heightwise of the heel and having'a relieved portion in its breast surface in line with the groove at the top of the heel breast, and a side cover margin overlying the breast surface at the outer side of said groove, a portion of said cover margin being tucked into said groove and another portion of said cover margin being untucked and lying flat upon the breast surface at the outer side of said relieved portion thereof.

27. A heel having a marginal groove in its breast extending heightwise of the heel and terminating short of the upper edge of the heel breast, and a side covering overlying the lateral'breast edge of the heel adjacent said roove and havin a mar inal ortion tucked into said groove and another marginal portion lying flat upon the heel breast margin above said groove.

28. A'heel having a cover-receiving groove extending along a lateral margin of the breast of the heel and terminating short of the upper edge of thebreast face, and a side covering overlying the lateral breast edge adjacent to said groove, said covering having a marginal portion tucked into said groove and an untucked margin overlying the heel breast margin above said groove, the edge thickness of said margin being reduced.

29. A heel having a curved cover-receiving groove extending along a lateral margin of the breast of the heel and terminating short of the upper edge of the breast face, anda side covering overlying the lateral breast edge ad acent to said groove, said covering having a marginal portion tucked into said groove groove.

and an untucked marginpverlying the heel breast above said groove, said untucked side cover margin having a trimmed edge extending from the upper end of said groove to the adjacent upper corner of the heel breast and blending with the curves of said breast breast surface.

I 30. A Louis heel formed with a forwardly extending lip at the upper portion of its breast and having cover-receiving grooves extending one along each lateral margin of the breast of the heel, said grooves terminating short of the forward edge of the heel breast lip, and a covering for the rear and sides of the heel overlying the lateral breast edges of the heel'and having marginal por-j tions tucked into said grooves and untuckedmargins overlying the marginal portions of the heel breast lip above said grooves.

31. A heel havinga marginal groove in its breast extending heightwise of the heel, a side covering having a marginal portion overlying alateral margin of the heel breast and tucked into said groove throughout'a portion 33. A heel having a cover-receiving groove extending along a lateral margin of the heel breast from the top-lift-receiving face to a point spaced from the attaching face of the heel.

34. A Louis heel having a cover-receiving groove extending along a lateral marginal portion of the heel breast and terminating shortof the forward edge of the heel breast.

lip.

35. A Louis heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending heightwise of the heel and terminating at points spaced from the forward edge of the heel breast lip to provide substantially flat cover margin receiving surfaces above said grooves at opposite corners of the heel breast lip. and a covering-having lower marginal portions tucked into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter and upper marginal portions overlying said substantially flat surfaces above said grooves.

36. A Louis heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending heightwise of the heel and terminatingat points spaced from the forward edge of the heel breast lip to provide substantially flat cover margin receiving surfaces above said grooves at opposite corners of the heel breast lip, and a covering having lower marginal portions tucked into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter and upper marginal portions overlying said substantially flat sur: faces above said grooves, said u'ppenmarginal portions being feathered so that their outer surfaces merge gradually with the heel marginal portions overlying the. untucked margins of the side covering above said grooves.

38. A Louis heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending heightwise of the heel and terminating at points spaced marginal portions lying flat upon the opposite corners of the heel breast lip above sa1d grooves, and a flap integral with the sole of the shoe, said flap havin lateral margins portions of which are tuc edinto said grooves and portions of which near the forward edge of the heel breast lip are untucked and are overlapped upon the respective portions of the side cover margins which overlie said cor'ners and the edges of said untucked margins of said flap extending over said grooves to the respective ends of the forward edge of the heel breast lipand being curved to blend with the curves of the sole edge.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification.

NORWOOD H. KNOWLTON. WILLIAM H. NUTT.

from the forward edge of the heel breast lip to provide substantially flat cover margin receiving surfaces above said grooves at opposite corners of the heel breast lip, a side covering having marginal portions tucked into said grooves throughout the lengths of the latter and overlying said substantially flat surfaces above said grooves, and a breast covering having lateral marginal portions tucked into said grooves beside the tuckedinma-rgins of said side covering and other marginal portions abutting the edges of the untucked margins of the side cover above said grooves. I

39. A shoe comprising a sole, a heel having in its breast two marginal grooves extending heigh-twise of the heel and located one near each lateral margin of the heel breast, a covering for the rear and sides of the heel having marginal portions overlying the lateral edges of'the heel breast and other marginal portions tucked into said breast grooves,

' and a flap integral. with the sole of the shoe,

said flap having lateral margins tucked into said grooves beside the tucked-in portions of k the side covering throughout a portion only of the height of the heel breast, the portions of said flap margins near the upper edge of the heel breast being untucked and merely overlapping the respective portions of-the side .cover margins which overlie the lateral breast corners at the upper portion of the heel breast, and the edges of said untucked margins of said flap extending from said groves to the respective ends of the'ugperedge of the heel breast in curves blen with the curves of the edges of the shank portion of the sole of the shoe.

40. A shoe comprising a sole, a Louis heel Having a marginal groove in its breastextending helghtwise of the heel and terminating short of the forward edge of the heel breast lip, a covering for the rear and sides of the heel having marginal portions tucked mto said breast grooves and having other 

